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Silver How, Grasmere, Rydal Water & the Rydal Coffin Route

29th January 2022

Despite Storm Malik battering the northern regions after two weeks away I was desperate to get back to Lakeland, trouble was due to commitments this evening I didn't have much time to do it in.

My initial plan was to scratch the itch that was Black Sails and Wetherlam, a walk that I had to abandon on two separate occasions but with winds predicted to reach over 100mph over the summits I again, will have to put that walk on the back burner.

Something low level was required so I planned to walk Silver How to Blea Rigg via the Raw Pike ridge from Grasmere but as you are about to read the wind even at 1,200ft was so strong I couldn't even make the summit so I turned heel and during my descent came up with this gem of a route.

 
Wainwright Guide Book Three
The Central Fells
 
 

Overview
Ascent: 1,777 Feet - 542 Metres
Wainwrights: Silver How (no summit)
Weather: Intermittent Sunshine, Squally Showers & Gale Force Winds Highs of 9°C Lows of 8°C Feels like 6°C
Parking: Parking Spaces, A591 Grasmere
Area: Central
Miles: 8.6
Walking With: On My Own
Ordnance Survey: OL7
Time Taken: 4 Hours
Route: A591 - Broadgate - Grasmere - Kelbarrow - Silver How - Wyke Plantation - Grasmere Lake - Rydal Water - Rydal - Rydal Coffin Route - Town End - Grasmere - Broadgate - A591
 

Parking Details and Map
Nearest Post Code: LA22 9RF
Grid Reference: NY 337 408
Notes: Possibly the most convenient, and popular layby in Lakeland! The layby is found just outside Grasmere in between the village and the Swan Hotel. Despite this being a rather long layby parking here is very popular mainly because of the position and access to Helm Crag, Far Easedale and the Fairfield fells. Parking is free.


 

Map and Photo Gallery

 
 

Helm Crag from the A591 just outside Grasmere 09:30am 9°C

Debris from fallen branches littered the A591 while Windermere with its white capped waves could have been mistaken for the north sea as spray peppered the traffic travelling towards Ambleside "it's going to be one of those kind of days is it" I muttered to myself. Despite the forecast there was only two parking spaces left at the layby as I eased the car into one of them. Before I started my kit up I spent a few moments listening to the wind which even to the seasoned fell walker sounded quite intimitdating. The car gently rocked as I took one last look out of the windscreen then opened my door which nearly flew of its hinges.

I walked to the rear and lifted up the tailgate which I'm sure would have acted like a sail had the handbrake not been applied. The forecast had prediced the wind at valley level to be around 40mph then to strengthen to 60 mph at 1,200ft so it was crucial nothing was forgotten which proved difficult while being distracted by my tailgate bucking in the wind. After one final sweep of the boot I closed the tailgate, locked the car and threw my pack over my shoulder and clipped it in tightly.


Sam Read's book shop, Grasmere.
Within minutes of leaving the lay by I was struck by the first shower of the day as I walked through Broadgate, nothing too heavy or lasting just squally rain which would come and go throughout the morning. Despite the busy layby Grasmere looked like a ghost town but in 4 hours you wouldn't be able to move through here.

Looking back on Steel Fell, Dunmail Raise, Stone Arthur, Great Rigg and Seat Sandal from Kelbarrow.

With Grasmere disappearing behind me I took the walled lane and climbed steeply towards Kelbarrow passing two large walking groups while doing so. These groups had a few small children with them and I wondered of their routes, hopefully they weren't aiming too high.

More showers arrived some more prolonged than others leaving some stunning rainbows. This photo was taken after the last shower had passed, you wouldn't believe just five minutes ago it was wet, grey and murky would you.


The wider view.
This time Heron Pike and Nab Scar can be seen over on the left. Whoops, it looks like a droplet of rain has caught the camera lens.

After yet another shower.
This rainbow appeared over Helm Crag. See what I mean about the ever changing conditions!

Silver How.
I'm not quite sure if this route has a name but I call it the groove. Out in the wide open the wind was punishingly strong and that doubt crept in again if Id make Blea Rigg at all. Up ahead at the top of the groove you might be able to spot someone in descent. Given how strong the wind is there's only going to be one topic of conversation.

Looking back on Loughrigg Fell from the top of the groove.

Cocooned with the groove the wind died down and for the first time this morning I could hear myself think. The higher I got however, the wind returned and I one point I was knocked off balance causing me to fall forward but I think I got away with the chap not seeing me. When we passed we stopped to chat and as expected present conditions was the first topic of conversation "where you heading?" the guy asked "Silver How and Blea Rigg" I replied the chap smiled "no you're not, you physically cannot stand beyond the col ahead "as bad as that" I replied.

As it turns out this chap was from Windermere and I'm not sure how or why but he told me he'd completed the Wainwrights 15 times, the Birketts and the Synges. He was of senior age and there was no reason to doubt him. After watching a curtain of rain fall over Loughrigg Fell we looked down only to spot the family I'd passed earlier at the base of the groove "best tell them not to bother" he said "aye" I agreed.


Battling the elements at the top of the groove with views towards Blea Rigg, Sergeant Man and Greenup Edge.

Two cairns fifty meters apart steered over the col where I was met with a ferocious gust so strong it was impossible to stand so I let bent down, fought with my camera and took this one shot. The roar of the wind was deafening and certainly intimidating, there was no way I was summiting Silver How never mind walking the ridge towards Blea Rigg.

Time to head back down.


Grasmere and Rydal Water.

I left the col and turned heel and within minutes I was out of the firing zone. Down below I could see the chap had talked the family out of an ascent who by now were descending towards Grasmere lake. However, two more couples were ascending one of which weren't equipped for the fells, we struck up conversation close to the col where I advised them not to summit "we'll go as far as we can then turn around" the guy said "be careful" I replied. They left and a few minutes later I turned around to see the guy helping his girlfriend back to her feet, they continued towards where I had been stood before the wind took her again. I hung on a few minutes more to see them re-tracing towards me.

The second couple were more equipped and didn't bother to ask what the conditions were like, I guess they'd find out the hard way.


Looking back up the groove.
The photo makes it look calm and surreal which it was anything but!

Steel Fell, Dunmail Raise, Seat Sandal, Stone Arthur, Great Rigg, Heron Pike and Nab Scar.

The chap I'd spoken to earlier was also parked at the layby where he got talking to two lads who were heading up Fairfield, he told me he gave me them the same "no you're not" advice as he gave me!

I had to think of a plan B coming up with a toss up between Easdale Tarn from Grasmere or a circuit of Grasmere and Rydal Water returning via the Rydal Coffin Route, the latter won as gaining even the lowest of elevations was dicing with death.


Looking back on Silver How (summit to the left)
The couple who passed without speaking are at the top of the groove while the couple who turned around after speaking to me can be seen half way down.

Stone Arthur, Great Rigg, Heron Pike and Nab Scar are seen after descending through the Wyke Plantation.

I followed the stone wall then dropped through the Wyke Plantation just in time for another shower. Despite the deafening roar ripping through the canopy overhead through gaps in the trees I could see sections of the Lake turn pure white just as it would if a helicopter was hovering over it.

After joining the lake road I walked with the masses through more showers until I arrived at the footpath linking the road with the shore path.


After one particular heavy downpour.
As the shower passes over Dunmail Raise this huge rainbow appeared over Grasmere Lake.

Helm Crag, Steel Fell, Dunmail Raise, Seat Sandal, Stone Arthur and Great Rigg from Grasmere Lake.
What a stunning view.

Breaking waves.
 

Silver How from Grasmere Lake.
The path I followed earlier is found just beyond the treeline.

Looking a tad choppy out there.
And here's me leaving my surf board at home.

Heading towards Rydal Water.
I passed the Wier then forked right and climbed slightly towards Loughrigg Terrace, that's Nab Scar in the sunshine over on the left.

Nab Scar from Rydal Water.
Rydal Water was nowhere near as busy as what Grasmere had been and seeing that it was lunchtime I de-shouldered and ate my lunch while on the go.

Looking back along Rydal Water towards Silver How.
It looks like another shower might be on its way.

St Mary's Church, Rydal.
I left Rydal Water behind and passed through the coppice, crossed the River Rothay and emerged at the Badger Bar on the A591. The road was crossed with ease as I turned left and took a peak at St Mary's Church where I spotted two walkers removing waterproofs on a nearby bench.

Rydal Coffin Route.
From St Mary's I climbed the lane while peering over towards Nab Scar... nope no takers, good. I turned left into sunshine before joining the coffin route proper.

What a fantastic afternoon it's turned out to be.
Named the 'Coffin Route' because it was used to convey coffins from Ambleside to their final journey at St Oswalds Church in Grasmere.

Continuing along the Coffin Route.
While welcoming the afternoon sunshne.

Silver How from above White Moss Common.
 

Looking up towards Dunny Beck.
I found this path fascinating mainly because I had never noticed it before and wondered where on the ridge above it lead out. It appears to be an alternative route to Alcock Tarn or possible Heron Pike if you venture far enough.

Town End, Grasmere.
The wind continued to roar through the canopy above my head but at road level it was almost Spring like. As predicted the wind had died down somewhat but not enough that it wasn't always in the background. I passed through Town End and joined Stock Lane while taking in the view over the fields towards Stone Arthur and Seat Sandal who were flanked in sunshine. There simply wasn't enough room to walk on the pavement so I walked close to the kerb where funnily enough, I don't remember being passed by any traffic. It was great to see all the shops and restaurants busy where it was mild enough for customers to eat outside while people watching.

I strike right and followed the one way passing the Herdy shop before turning right onto Broadgate at Sam Reads book shop. The skies darkened and for the first time today I was walking into the wind for the last half mile right as it started to rain, it'll soon stop just like all the other showers had but this wasn't a shower. With the winds easing the rain fell vertically sending the mums and dads on the play ground running for cover. I had seen Helm Crag set against a blue sky not five minutes earlier, now I could only see the faint outline behind a curtain of rain.

The layby was still busy but as I approached cars were already leaving. I crossed the road and used the pavement on't other side and in doing so passed a drenched walker where only a nod was exchanged. I crossed the road again as I came in line with my car, downed my back and removed my keys from my packs security pocket. Cars whizzed past towards Dunmail Raise then it was just me and wind again. The rain had stopped by now but I was already soaked and looking forward to jumping into the drivers seat just so my ears could adjust to the silence. Kitted down I did just that and watched through the window while letting the wipers clear the rain away. The rain had pushed north towards Dunmail Raise and as if by magic chinks of blue started to reappear in the skies above.


 

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