Black Combe from Whitbeck

2nd May 2022

With time off from work I hadn't been dealt the best of forecast this week, certainly some of the longer walks that I had planned deserved a full day with good visibility but they can wait, the fells are going nowhere.

I've developed a crush on Black Comb which in some cases is becoming my 'go to fell' There's something about walking close to the coast that I'm attracted too, on a windy day you can hear the waves crashing against the coastline and on bright clear days the sea is so blue you couldn't palete it.

With low cloud forecasted for the best part of the morning I left it late and travelled west under brooding skies expecting to arrive in Whitbeck where brighter skies had been forecasted. The experts got their timings wrong but the cloud only added to the occasion. Picture humid temperatures, gentle grassy slopes and cloud that seemed to lift as I edged towards it while being accompanied by the sound of Skylarks hidden in parting cloud. That'll bring you somewhere close to how much I enjoyed todays walk.

 
Wainwright Guide Book
The Outlying Fells
It is excellent territory for walking, with enough possible variations of routes to cater for a full week afoot.
 

Overview
Ascent: 2,226 Feet - 678 Metres
Outlying Fells: Black Combe
Weather: Mild & Cloudy To Start Turning Brighter With Warm Sunshine. Light Summit Winds. Highs of 16°C Lows of 16°C
Parking: Layby - Whitbeck
Area: Western
Miles: 8
Walking With: On My Own
Ordnance Survey: OL6
Time Taken: 4 Hours
Route: Whitbeck - Millergill Beck - Fell Cottage - Butcher's Breast - Hentoe Hill - Blackcombe Screes - Black Combe - Black Combe South Top - Seaness - Whitbeck
 

Parking Details and Map
Nearest Post Code: LA19 5UR
Grid Reference: SD 116 842


 

Map and Photo Gallery

 
 

Heading towards Miller Gill and Whitbeck Mill 13:30pm 16°C

The Bank Holiday traffic wasn't a problem driving west and I arrived around 13:30 and parked on a lay by right outside Whitbeck. It was on the mild side but not T-shirt weather so I added a soft-shell hoodie to take the bite away. A Landrover pulling a single horse box pulls up behind me whose occupants quickly get to work dropping the tailgate so a horse can be backed out.

I'm joined by an elderly lady walking two dogs both of whom come over for a sniff which turned into a wet nose kiss from one of the dogs "your very privileged she apologized, she doesn't like men, abused when she was a pup" she went onto say "wicked" and "you wouldn't think it" I replied. By now I've lost my train of thought so I perform a second sweep of the boot and pat down. By now the horse was out the horse box and was being held by its reign by a woman who gave me a hi as I passed before turning right onto the lane rose slightly passing hedges of bluebells and abandoned farm buildings. I heard Millergill Beck as I reached the top of the lane where views opened out into Miller Gill.


Miller Gill and Millergill Beck above Whitbeck.
I'm very familiar with Miller Gill after following Birketts route to the summit of Black Combe via the Gill which is a route I'd only recommend if you don't mind climbing steep, pathless ascents. After crossing Miller Gill via a series of well placed stepping stones I joined a path leading away from the Gill when I spotted a couple below me. Besides the horse box couple and a chap who I pass during the descent of Black Combe they were the only people I'd seen all day which is amazing given today is a Bank Holiday Monday.

Whitbeck Mill.
The path climbs above the Grade II listed Whitbeck Mill complete with water wheel.

Now heading towards Fell Cottage.
Other than crossing three notable gills (Miller, Monkfoss and William Gill) the path is pretty much like this all the way.

Fell Cottage.
The intake wall came in line with the path which prior to reaching Fell Cottage turned pretty spongy but some kind person had laid stepping stones so my boots hardly saw a drop. Here's the ruined Fell Cottage which had a seized, and very tired looking vice attached to the wall which could have been well over 100 years old.

Holegill Beck and William Gill.

I continued on passing as many as a dozen dead Sheep spread out over a mile who had all met their grizzly ends no doubt by a Fox close to the intake wall. Some looked like they had been there for weeks but judging by the smell of others could have only been there days. Not the best site if you're on the squeamish side.

Footnote: Note the natural line of the fell side over on the left which I noticed had a smooth grassy path up on it. I was really tempted to ascend here which would no doubt meet up with the path I intend to use anyway but thought I'd stick to the original route.


It's just a case of following the intake wall.
That's Butcher's Breast up ahead, if you look right you'll see the path cut into the hill side which is my route of ascent today.

Views out towards Barfield Tarn.
On a clear day you'd also be able to see the Irish Sea beyond but it's just too murky at the moment.

Ascending into the cloud.
The intake wall continued through a private field where I turned right and ascended steadily by a wire fence. The path curved a generous right above Butcher's Breast and continued up the fell side.

Not too far from the summit now.

When Wainwright said you could climb Black Combe in your slippers he must have been talking about this ascent where you could go so far to ascend barefoot, what a delightful easy going ascent accompanied by parting cloud, mild temperatures and the sound of Skylarks hidden from view by the cloud. I was in heaven.

Steering right would take me directly towards the summit but here I head left towards the rim of the Black Combe Screes.


White Combe lost in cloud.
I soon reached the top of the Screes and was shocked to find the cloud was lifting as it drifted over the top of the Screes.

Black Combe Screes.
Not only was the cloud lifting the sun was trying to break through too, what great timing I thought.

Through the parting cloud...
...White Combe appears with Whitecombe Beck below.

Cloud drifting over Black Combe Screes.
As epic as these moments are I also wanted to enjoy the summit cloud free so I left the top of the screes and made the short ascent towards Black Combe summit.

Some views though...
...were difficult to ignore.

Black Combe summit shelter and trig point.
The impressive summit shelter was soon reached under ever clearing skies, in fact with the sun making an appearance I could have removed my soft-shell but seeing as I plan to eat a late lunch soon it's probably wise I leave it on until later.

Passing the un-named Tarn.
I left the summit and took in the slight descent towards the unnamed Tarn which divides Black Combe from the its south summit. I was wise to keep my soft-shell on where I was met with a cool summit breeze blowing in off the coast. Nevertheless I hunkered down and used the south summit cairn as a wind break while taking in the coastal views which extended from the Duddon Estuary to St Bee's in the murky distance.

Enjoying the coastal views during the descent of Black Combe.
I made a pathless descent from the south summit and linked back up with the Whicham path under brilliant sunshine, now it was time to de-layer. That's Townend Knotts seen far right but I'm heading for the dip seen left which will eventually lead me onto Seaness todays final summit.

Seaness appears.
The Whicham path continues to descend left while up ahead I break right onto the fantastic Seaness.

 
 

The Doddon Estuary and the Irish Sea from Seaness.
If I spent twenty minutes eating lunch from Black Combe's south summit I must have spent close to half an hour here taking in the view and enjoying the sunshine.

Townend Knotts and Black Combe from Seaness.
Is doesn't feel like it's the same day but that's the Lakeland weather for you!

Coastal Views.
That's the Barrow Offshore Wind Farm in the distance. The haze at the time made the turbines look like they were hundreds of feet up in the air, sadly this is the best shot I could take using my mobile phone.

Descending Seaness.
With views of Whitbeck and the Cumbrian coast.

Looking south.
 

Looking West.
 

Almost back on the A595.
I left Seaness behind not before one or two final looks over my shoulder before passing through a herd of sheep who trotted ahead of me for the best duration of descent. The sun was directly above now and high in the sky "a good four hours left" I muttered to myself, had I the time to hang around for the sunset I would not be disappointed. For the last 100 yards of descent I cut through dead bracken towards a gate in the intake wall which lead onto the A595 thereafter. Cars and bikes had already broken the silence but I paid them no attention instead soaking in the wonderful views before boots met tarmac.

 

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