The West Dart Valley from Two Bridges, Dartmoor

25th August 2024


 
 
 
 
 

 

Overview
Ascent: 1,200 Feet - 365 Metres
Tors Visited: 16, Crocken Tor - Little Bee Tor - Littaford Tor - Little Longaford Tor - Longaford Tor - High White Tor - Lower White Tor - Little Whiten Tor - Little Crow Tor - Crow Tor - Lydford Tor - Beardown West Tor - Little Beardown Tor - Beardown East Tor - Beardown North Tor
Weather: A Bright Start Turning Cloudy With Sunny Intervals, Windy Throughout. Highs of 15°C Lows of 12°C
Parking: Two Bridges, Yelverton Dartmoor
Area: West Dart Valley, Dartmoor National Park
Miles: 8.6
Walking With: David Hall
Ordnance Survey: OL28
Time Taken: 5 Hours
Route: Two Bridges - Crockern - Crocken Tor - Little Bee Tor - Littaford Tor - Little Longaford Tor - Longaford Tor - High White Tor - Lower white Tor - Little Whiten Tor - Little Crow Tor - Crow Tor - West Dart River - Lydford Tor - Beardown West Tor - Little Beardown Tor - Beardown East Tor - Beardown North Tor - West Dart River - Wistman's Wood - Crockern - Two Bridges
 

Parking Details and Map
Nearest Post Code: PL20 6SW
Grid Reference: SX 609 750


 

Map and Photo Gallery

 
 

Day 2; Almost ready to leave for Two Bridges and The West Dart Valley 12°C 8:00am

After pizza last night we returned to the tent to relax and enjoy the rest of the evening. The trouble was that I was really struggling to stay awake, let alone carry a conversation, so I decided to get some fresh air and go for a pee and on the way back I perked up and conversation flowed until around 9pm when we decided to call it a day. David was still chatting away when when I felt myself nodding off. Despite sleeping just inches of the floor, I slept like a baby, waking around 07:00am, soon followed by David. 

We told ourselves there was no need to rush out as David handed out half a Madeira cake, but let me point out that this wasn't half a slice; it was half a cake! which I washed down with a cup of coffee that I'd boiled up on the travel stove. Once ready, we secured the tent and under bright morning sunshine, drove the 22 miles to Two Bridges in the heart of the Dartmoor National Park.


Heading towards Crockern, West Dart Valley.

It took around forty-five minutes to drive to Two Bridges, where we managed to see more of Dartmoor as David rattled off tors from memory, some of which he had not yet set foot on. The car climbed to an altitude of 1,400 ABSL as we drove through the Merrivale Valley, with Dartmoor Prison seen beyond, which even during modern times, still has that scare factor to it. The prison was built to hold prisoners from the Napoleonic War, and during The War (The Second War of Independence) between 1812-1815 over 7,000 American sailors were imprisoned at Dartmoor. After the war ended, those who survived were released and repatriated. We parked with ease opposite a small quarry, which David informed me had been dug out by prisoners.

Below the quarry, hidden by overgrown bracken and bramble bushes, was today's final tor, Two Bridges Tor, which we would collect on our return. There was already one other car parked up when we arrived whose occupants were keeping themselves to themselves. As we kitted up, we could hear they were American's but we were unsure which state. We left them kitting up before passing through a wooden gate bound for Crockern Cottage and our first tor of the day, Crockern Tor.


The view towards The West Dart Valley, Longaford Tor (C) and Littaford Tors (R)
We followed the track and passed Crockern Cottage spotting the owner who was tending to her garden before reaching a fork in the path where we headed right for Crockern Tor, heading left here would have taken us above the West Dart Valley, the same path that we'd be returning on.

The view south from Crocken Tor.
The path began to rise and behind us the two American's who turned out to be fell (trail) runners were catching us up. We broke a pathless right in the direction of Crocken Tor reaching it within minutes. What had started as a bright day was becoming overcast as the clouds began to build.

Little Bee Tor.
Over the next half mile the ridge is littered with tors all with their own names some of which are not listed on the map but David had done his research and we were able to name them all.

Approaching Lingaford Tor.
We passed Littaford and Little Littaford Tors next which were guarded by a herd a cattle with calfs in the vicinity so we gave them a wide berth. That's Higher White Tor over on the right, and possibly a personal favorite out of all the tors we'd visited.

Little Littaford Tor, Littaford Tor to name a few from Longaford Tor.

We continued along the ridge by which time it had well and truly clouded over accompanied by the wind that had been with us all weekend. From out of no-where an eldery chap appeared with his Spaniel dog who defintely looked local and 'mornings' were shared before we took on the ascent of Longaford Tor.

Up close Longaford Tor is huge, bordered by steep grass banks with the exception of its north side which was a mass of rock, scattered and perched boulders.

Approaching Higher White Tor.

After descending Longaford Tor we were passed by two young lads and more 'mornings' were shared.


Littaford Tor and Longaford Tor from Higher White Tor.
Incredibly the skies cleared and the sun shone as we shouldered Higher White Tor which would stay with us for the next few hours. On reaching the summit we spotted two wild-campers brushing their teeth trying, and probably failing to shelter from the wind. The moor is so open and uninterrupted wind is king here.

Little White Tor and Braddon Tor (R) ahead.
Having descended Higher White Tor we crossed a ladder sty and pushed towards Lower White Tor in the distance.

Lower White Tor.
With the ruin of Brown's House seen to the left.

Higher White Tor from Lower White Tor.
We had to jump over a couple of streams before Lower White Tor was reached where we found the perfect wild-camping spot on one side of the tor. It was obvious the sheep came here to shelter and while they were at it they clipped at the grass until it resembled a wonky billiard table. What a great spot.

Braddon Tor from Lower White Tor.
We had a rough idea of the route but nothing was set in stone if it so happened if we fancied visiting one tor or another we'd add or chop it off the route. Braddon Tor was sadly chopped in favour of an expedition we'd just planned which would include adding two extra tors (Rough Tor and Devil's Tor) to the west. It was about an hour later when we realised that we'd bitten off more than we could chew and the expedition was axed. I couldn't help but feel guilty that we never visited Braddon Tor after all.

Heading towards to West Dart River with views of Beardown Tors (L) and Crow Tor (R)
We re-traced our steps almost as far as Higher White Tor but kept to the inside of the wall as we took in the slight descent towards West Dart River collecting Whitten Tor just off the path along the way. After crossing the river we head right onto the grassy ridge seen right and visit Crow Tor.

David crossing West Dart River.
David had done as much research as he could regarding the crossing of West Dart River, information being limited. The river could have been thirty feet wide and ten feet deep so you could imagine our surprise when we stumbled upon a set of stepping stones right at the point where we needed to cross. We didn't need to de-boot after all!

Beardown Tors from Little Crow Tor.
After crossing the Dart we began the short but steep ascent towards Crow Tor collecting Little Crow Tor first.

Crow Tor.
While the sun was out we decided to have a break and finish off the Madeira cake we'd started this morning while watching the wild grasses sway just like waves on the ocean. Great stuff.

Rough Tor on the horizon.
As mentioned earlier we had plans to include Rough Tor then skirt around the head of the valley seen left before heading back to Beard on Tors but the area was rife with peat bogs that made The Nab in the Lake District look like a walk in the park. In this light Rough Tor looked worth taking the chance but the route would have added hours to the walk which we hadn't planned for.

Crow Tor with West Dart River below.
We're right on the boundary for the firing range indicated here by the red and white poles. During live firing you are not allowed beyond the poles with look -out points across the moor I would assume that anyone straying into the range would be in for a stern telling off, or worse, mortared!

Breaking trail towards Lydford Tor.
After crossing the Dart with ease we climbed steeply from the river bank which eventually plateaued as Beardon Tors came into view. Over to our right Lydford Tor also came into view as I uttered inevitable "you thinking what I'm thinking" Aye lets go.

Bearford Tors from Lydford Tor.
The view was fantastic from Lydford Tor just rolling hills dotted with tors for as far as the eye could see in every direction. It's very rare you hear David swear but the f-word came out followed by "would you look at that" If you could imagine standing on Harrop Pike and looking over towards Great Yarlside only ten times the distance you might begin to understand what we were looking at...Sadly non of the photo's I took made it to the website.

Lydford Tor from Beardon West Tor.
We left Lydford Tor and watched on as a solo walker with her black lab shouldered Beardon West Tor the Lab darting here there and everywhere, that dog was having the time of its life. We crossed the moorland and made a pathless ascent on the West Tor making a point to investigate one of the army's look out post. Can you imagine your day job having to look out for stray walkers wondering into a live firing range.

Beardon East Tor from the West Tor.
We'll be over there soon.

Looking towards the Firing Range.
The good news is there is no live firing in the month of August, or was it July...

Next we had a wander over to Little Beardon Tor.
Fine spot for lunch but we had no cake left.

Beardon East Tor.
Seen here topped off with a flag pole complete with flashing beacon...Good to see there was no red flag on display today or we'd be in trouble.

Beardon North Tor from Beardon East Tor.
With Rough Tor and Crow Tor seen over to the right.

Crossing West Dart River at the Weir.

During our descent towards the Weir we could see two groups of people also heading for the Weir who seemed to be having a bit of trouble with the bogs on the opposite side and as we grew closer we could see that they were wearing trainers and everyday clothing. David and I crossed the Weir as the first group approached who turned out to be American's whose first words were "I see you got your trekking poles" all very friendly I might add.

They'd obviously followed the valley path and were a little unprepared especially the young girl who dunked her feet into the water to clean her trainers off, which worked wonders but she now had to contend with cold wet feet. They went on to ask the best way to cross the Weir and David gave them his advice, as mentioned lovely people just a little unprepared. Would you believe we've only seen eight people all day and five were American.


The West Dart Valley.

We were soon passed by the second couple, who also warned us about the bogs, and to be fair, these bogs were on steroids, swallowing a walking pole to its handle. With the bog behind us, we climbed above Wistman's Wood, one of Britain's last remaining ancient temperate rainforests and one of three remote high-altitude oakwoods on Dartmoor. As impressive as the woodland was, you are advised not to venture into the woodland through fear of destroying the lichens and mosses, but sadly, it was too tempting for some. We passed the woodland and crossed the bouldersome path before it plateaued from where I could make out Crocken Cottage. We began to pass groups of students and I lost count at thirty-ish, we hoped they weren't visiting the woodland.

The skies darkened, and within minutes we could feel rain in the air, followed by a biblical downpour that curtained across the valley. Nothing escaped a drenching. Having passed the cottage just 100 yards from the car, the skies cleared and the sun came back out, but it was too late; we were drenched. Before unlocking the car, we visited Two Bridges Tor. We returned to the car to find a family talking about their friends who were unable to park. "We're leaving soon," I added. I shook my wet jacket and placed it on a hanger to dry out before starting the car and manoeuvring it out of its tight space. We had already agreed to drive to Princetown for a late lunch at the Old Police Station Cafe, and I was conscious that I like I had just crawled out of the sea, David probably too. We parked up and strolled down the quiet main street until we reached the cafe, where we found it was standing room only. Jeez, I was so looking forward to a hot meal. We expected to be told there was an hour wait, but instead we were ushered to a reserved table and seated. Now thats what you call service. I ordered gammon, David, turkey roast; both meals arrived within ten minutes and were piping hot and delicious. Afterwards, before we returned to the car we stopped off at the local post office which doubled as a convenience store and bought tomorrow's breakfast and lunch.  The skies turned black again as we returned to Okehampton, the rain stopping as quickly as it started this time there no sunshine in between. It was early evening by the time we got back to the campsite, and we settled into conversation while David pollished off a cornish pastie he'd bought back in Princetown while I tucked in to a Rice Pot.

The rain had been forecast for an hour or two, but it never gave up continuing through the night, keeping the pair of us awake. The worst thing was the tent was pitched below a row of trees the rain constantly dripped from the branches without remorse. The next morning we looked like two zombies, hardly three hours sleep each. David mentioned that the last thing he felt like doing was heading out for a walk. I was so glad he brought it up as it had been on my mind too. Instead, we agreed to take the tent down and dry it as best we could before folding it back into its bag, ready for an airing when David got home. I boiled the kettle, and while David visited the toilets, I removed all the tent pegs and let the air out of the ribs. The tent folded like a pack of cards. David returned, and he dried the tent with his towel before packing the car with all our gear, all of this before 7:00am. Typically the sun rose into a cloudless sky, the clear blue just above our heads made for perfect conditions for a walk, but we'd called it hours ago. David, was right. I did love Dartmoor.



 

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