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Helvellyn to Stybarrow Dodd via Hart Side |
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25th November 2025 |
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Overview |
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| Ascent: |
3,523 Feet - 1,073 Metres |
| Wainwrights: |
5, Helvellyn - White Side - Raise - Hart Side - Stybarrow Dodd |
| Visiting: |
3, Browncove Crags - Helvellyn Lower Man - Whitestones |
| Weather: |
Winter Sunshine Throughout, Summit Winds Easing. Highs of 8°C Lows of 3°C Feels Like -10°C |
| Parking Using x2 Cars: |
Layby Stanah - Layby, Swirls |
| Area: |
Eastern |
| Miles: |
8.5 |
| Walking With: |
David Hall |
| Ordnance Survey: |
OL5 |
| Time Taken: |
5 Hours |
| Route: |
Swirls – Helvellyn Gill - Browncove Crags – Helvellyn – Helvellyn Lower Man - White Side - Raise - Top of Sticks Pass - Whitestones - Hart Side - Stybarrow Dodd - Stybarrow Dodd West Ridge - Sticks Pass - Stanah |
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Parking Details and Map Stanah |
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| Nearest Post Code: |
CA12 4TH |
| Grid Reference: |
NY 318 218 |
| Notes: |
The small layby can be found on the northern spur of Thirlmere on the right hand side if travelling north or just after the junction with St Johns-in-the-Vale if travelling from the south. |
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Parking Details and Map Swirls |
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| Nearest Post Code: |
CA12 4TW |
| Grid Reference: |
NY 316 416 |
| Notes: |
The car park at Swirls is a very popular car park all year around and is owned by United Utilities. There is a toilet block on the car park with easy access onto Helvellyn via Browncove Crags. On the opposite side of the A591 a smaller car park can be found overlooking Thirlmere Reservoir. Parking charges apply at both car parks, however a short distance north (upper arrow) a lay-by can be found where it is free to park. |
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Map and Photo Gallery |
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| Views over Thirlmere towards Raven Crag, The Benn, Armboth Fell, High Tove, High Seat and Bleaberry Fell 8:42am -6°C |
Two days earlier I had spotted a weather window on Tuesday, trouble was as I was working but after a bit of persuasion I managed to convince my boss to allow me to take the day off. By now it was late Monday afternoon and with the narrowest of margins I emailed David asking did he fancy joining me on a hike up Helvellyn tomorrow. David replied shortly afterwards saying that he'd booked Tuesday and Wednesday off anyway and that he'd love to join me. That night over a quick phone call we confirmed the route where by we'd leave one car at Stanah and the other at Swirls and walk the Helvellyn ridge as far as Sticks Pass before heading north east to include Whitestones and Hart Side completing the route with a double back on Stybarrow Dodd.
We had arranged to meet at Stanah at 7:15am and shortly before I arrived I'd spotted two head torches below Browncove Crags but due to the angle I couldn't see the cloud besieging Helvellyn's summit but I would soon. I arrived at Stanah around 7:00am and listened to my Audible book 'The way of the hermit' by Ken Smith which had been recommended to me by David and all I can say is, I can't stop listening to it to the point when getting stuck in traffic no longer stresses me out. Anyway, I swapped my gear (looks sheepishly as I type this) into David's car before we proceeded to drive to the layby at Swirls during which time David couldn't get a word in edgeways because all I could talk about was the book he'd recommended. Minutes later we'd parked up and we could still see the two head torches which by now were shouldering Browncove Crags set against scuttling cloud.
Dawn hadn't arrived and we began our kit up lacing boots up whilst I went on and on about the book before I stopped and blurted out the F-word, repeating it three of four more times "I've left my f-in jacket in my car David, I'm so sorry mate, no worries Paul, we're still early and semi-kitted up we drove back to Stanah, retrieved my jacket and drove back to Swirls, again. I couldn't have apologised enough. There was at least half a dozen cars parked up but we left the layby alone, passed through the pay and display car park, crossed Helvellyn Gill before beginning the long ascent on Browncove Crags. |
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| Sunlight reaches Ullscarf and beyond. |
Deep in conversation we joined the stone staircase from where we noticed the pink hue of the clouds scuttling over Helvellyn's summit joined by a drop in temperature both agreeing it would be a few hours yet until sunlight reached this side of the mountain. We persevered, zigzagging the steep staircase until we passed through the wide section of broken wall with Browncove Crags summit 1,100ft ahead.
By now the sun had rose high enough to cast first light on the fells west of Thirlmere illuminating the hill side in a rich glow before sunrise 'proper' took over. Those first few moments after sunrise will always be my favourite time of day. |
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| Helvellyn Lower Man from Browncove Crags. |
With more height gained we could feel the plummeting temperature continue to drop and over the wind I heard David say he'd be stopping soon to add another layer agreeing I'd be adding a hat at the same time. We continued and before reaching 'crampon rock' we stopped whilst David fought against the wind to add a windproof jacket as I eased my beanie followed by long sips of freezing cold Summer fruits through my bite valve. I could literally feel its icy content slither down my throat and drop into my stomach.
By now David had won his fight with the wind and we were both ready to leave but had spotted two girls in descent so we held off and let them pass. Both were in full conversation chatting away like they were stood at a nightclub bar oblivious to the windchill David and I were feeling. The girls passed with a 'thanks' advising them that there was plenty of snow at the summit. |
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| Views towards White Side, Raise, Stybarrow Dodd, Whitestones and Hart Side. |
We crested the summit of Browncove Crags and immediately felt another drop in temperature which saw me pull up my neck gaitor to cover my chin and the tips of my ears, brain freeze was not far away! Ground conditions changed at Browncove Crags encountering fresh hail lying on frozen snow so solid it was a job to kick through. |
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| Sunrise through shifting cloud. |
| Here, looking across the western flank of Helvellyn towards Nethermost Pike, High Crag, Dollywagon Pike, Seat Sandal and St Sunday Crag. |
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| Not far away now. |
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| Looking back on Browncove Crags summit. |
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| The view towards the Coniston, Central, Great Langdale and Western fells. |
| With Whelp Side escaping the snow below. |
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| Winter sun. |
| We decided to head straight for Helvellyn trig point, then a quick visit to the summit cairn before doubling back towards the top of Swirral Edge. |
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| Views from the summit cross shelter towards Striding Edge. |
We were passed by three of four walkers in descent who we assumed were the walkers we'd seen wearing head torches from Swirls earlier passing with smiles and overall friendly folk. The summit trig point soon came into view as did a young couple who by the looks of it would arrive at the trig exactly the same time as me and David.
I'm no fan of writing about what I'm about to write but what happened next was just woeful. On spying myself and David the girl quickened her pace making sure she'd arrive before us, no problem, we're two grown gents let the young girl have her summit time but what proceeded next was an act of pure selfishness whereby the girl took out her mobile and began to video herself all the while these two awkward looking buggers were stood directly behind her "I'm sure she knows we're right behind I thought" but the camera and commentary kept rolling, by now even her boyfriend didn't know where to look either. David and I rolled our eyes and left making our way towards the summit cairn from where we took in the cloud dramatics over Striding Edge and Nethermost Cove. |
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| Helvellyn summit. |
Whilst David and I were taking in the view over Striding Edge we turned around to see the girl standing at the edge of the bare rock in the lower right of this photo arms out gesturing to her boyfriend to take more pictures unaware she was stood within a foot of the snow cornice and before we had the chance to blink she ran back to her boyfriend coming within feet of the cornice.
As I grow older I've come to realise the reason why I still love walking the Lakeland fells are completely different to a minority of the new generations who visit. |
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| Nethermost Pike through passing cloud. |
| If it wasn't for the mind numbing windchill we could have stood here all day morning watching the cloud dramatics. |
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| Nethermost Pike now clear of cloud. |
| Well, for now at least. |
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| Looking down on Red Tarn, Striding Edge and Birkhouse Moor. |
| I'd half expected to see Red Tarn frozen this morning but instead it looked like it was blowing a hooley down there. |
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| Swirral Edge and Catstye Cam with Birkhouse Moor and Ullswater beyond. |
| It's unusual not to see anyone on either Swirral or Striding edges but this morning both were totally void of climbers |
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| One last photo looking back on Helvellyn summit. |
| Before we head across the top of Brown Cove towards Helvellyn Lower Man. |
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| White Side, Raise, Stybarrow Dodd, Watson's Dodd, Great Rigg and Hart Side beyond Brown Cove. |
| Now heading into a southerly windchill we could see our route mapped out before us in winter sunshine. |
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| Descending Lower Man with views of White Side, Raise, Stybarrow Dodd, Great Dodd and Hart Side. |
| It was a carefully slow descent from just below the summit where the path was at its steepest due to the frozen ground but we were soon able to pick up pace once the gradient eased. |
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| Stopping to look back on Lower Man, Helvellyn, Swirral Edge and Striding Edge. |
| Although the winds seemed to be easing cloud began to fill in over Helvellyn summit and would remain there for the next hour or so. Meanwhile we were heading into more winter sunshine. |
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| Raise from the descent of White Side. |
| We soon reached White Side summit where we stopped for a hot drink sharing the contents of piping hot summer fruits from my mini flask. |
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| Raise with Stybarrow Dodd beyond. |
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| Stybarrow Dodd, Watson's Dodd and Great Dodd from Raise. |
| Raise was possibly the busiest summit finding one chap sheltering from the wind directly behind the summit cairn hence no photo, two walkers about to leave and a young girl with a beautiful brown and white collie, needless to say after passing our hi's and hellos we began our descent opting to swerve the path due to icy rock and descend via frozen grass to the side. |
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| Whitestones comes into view. |
| Raise was descended quickly and we soon crossed the top of Sticks Pass where we passed a lady enroute to Raise. From the top of the pass we continued ahead spotting a new path that had been cut into the grass below Stybarrow Dodd summit where the original path curved right, this path continued straight ahead. As unsightly as it was it's not uncommon for fell runners to take the 'direct line' during fell races and hill side will usually return to its natural state within a few weeks. |
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| Looking beyond Sticks Pass towards Raise. |
| The ski tow clearly shown by remnants of old snow. |
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| Looking back on Stybarrow Dodd. |
| We'll be retracing this path later with the last ascent of the morning seen to the left, a path that I've only ever descended in the past. |
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| Stybarrow Dodd from Whitestones west summit cairn. |
| Not the acutal summit cairn which lies fifty yards to the east. |
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| Little Mell Fell, Gowbarrow Fell and Birket Fell from Hart Side summit. |
| With Arthur's Pike, Bonscale Pike and Loadpot Hill in the distance. |
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| Time to double back. |
| We head right at the fork in the path ahead with Whitestones seen left and Stybarrow Dodd right. |
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| Looking back on Whitestones and Hart Side. |
| What a beautiful morning it's been and with hardly anyone around. |
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| The Skiddaw group, Blencathra, Watson's Dodd and Great Dodd during our Stybarrow Dodd descent. |
| We headed right at the fork and began the gentle ascent on Stybarrow's east shoulder the gradient getting steeper without much notice due to being in conversation, the last fifty metres or so pulled at the calf muscles before the summit cairn came into view. We spotted folk stood at Great Dodd and indeed Watson's Dodd and before we began our pathless descent down the west ridge we spotted a walker cresting the summit from the direction of Sticks Pass but we'd be long gone before our paths would meet. |
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| Stunning views of the Central and North Western fells taken during our descent. |
| With Stanah Gill seen to the right. |
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| Looking back on Stybarrow Dodd and Watson's Dodd. |
| Divided by Stanahgill Head seen centre. |
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| Picture postcard views as we descend Sticks Pass back to Stanah. |
Our pathless descent soon ended as we crossed the single track for Stybarrow Dodd and linked up with Sticks Pass continuing our descent agreeing that we'd have a quick bite to eat once we reached the familiar sheepfold below. It was approaching midday and views just kept getting clearer hence my picture postcard remark. The frozen ground gave way once we left the snow patches behind sometimes having to skirt around the boggier sections of the pass whilst others which were still in shade remained frozen. We soon reached the sheepfold where we de-shouldered our packs for a bite to eat in almost silence as we took in the views towards High Rigg, Skiddaw and the distant Lord's Seat fells, it seemed such a shame to have to end the walk in what could only be described as perfect conditions but all good things must come to an end so we re-shouldered packs and continued our descent passing a young farmer with his four dogs who was herding sheep from higher up the pass.
The sound of traffic travelling on the A591 below crept into earshot interrupted by the clanging of gates from Stybeck Farm below. We reached the bottom of the pass and looked back to see the young farmer returning this time with a herd of sheep who scurried in numbers down one side of Stanah Gill. We passed the wooden sign post for Sticks Pass which a year ago had the word 'fairy pool' inscribed into its post but someone has attempted to sand the lettering away, good on em. We crossed a steady flowing, sun glistened leat before arriving at Stanah my car visible through the bare trees which surround the parking spaces. It felt like the end of September rather than mid November such the warmth from the midday sun we'd both have delayered to single layers had the car not been so close. We crossed the B5322 and I unlocked my car my feet feeling the miles, as we kitted down we spilled into the car and drove south back to Swirls and whilst I tried to block the sun from my eyes David laughed 'how many times have we drove down here today' cheeky bugger. |
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